Obviously I've dropped the ball on writing in the last week. This is due to the demotivating factors of 1. no wifi access in hostels and 2. stepping up my average kilometers per day from 27 ish to 35 ish, and in yesterday's case, 42 full kilometers (AKA the length of a full marathon, no big deal). My feet are throbbing and the only comfort is our solid ritual of grabbing an ice cream bar about 2 kilometers from the albergue to get through that final push.
Acebo to Cacabelos, O Cabreiro, San Mamed del Camino, Portomarin, Melide, to Arco.
Between Cacabelos to Portomarin the terrain was mountainous and hilly. It was great view after great view, and really held the most recharging moments of this trip, despite the intense inclines. I found myself closing my eyes on multiple occasions, trying to cement the picture around me in my memory, like waking up in O Cebeiro, which is on a mountain top, and seeing the whole valley filled with clouds and seeing the sun rise above them. It is so lovely to be so present in each moment and to have my breath taken away multiple times per day. I feel renewed and refreshed, I know I've said that a million times, but it becomes more and more true each day.
There is too much to catch up on and probably details that are significant to me that may seem mundane or repetitive, and there is dinner to be made, so I will leave it for another time. I will leave you with this:
It has become a bit of a joke that I exclaim that every little thing on this trip is the best of my life; I am always saying, "this is the BEST sandwich I've ever had!", "that shower was the best shower of my life!", "this is the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in!" (a bit of a stretch on that one). Our walk to O Cebreiro, our first 37k day which included walking up two mountains, included a desperate stop for ice cream about 5k from the top. And as we staggered and limped up those final turns, I said my famous, "this is honestly the best tasting ice cream I've ever had," and then I had this thought, that everything feels and tastes as good as it does because it has been earned. I sleep soundly from the crazy work I've made my body do. The simple sandwiches we make are so necessary to get us up the hill. And I have learned something through the simple act of sheer gratitude from a bar of ice cream, that I want to live my life in this way, I want to live in a way that I earn the simple rewards of life. I want to put my head down on my pillow and be worthy of rest. I want to put my heart into my art and my work. I want everything to taste its sweetest.
Tomorrow I will be done this crazy adventure. I can't believe the end is so near, only 18k to go. I know I will come home changed, and so inspired by the beauty of others.